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MArch 6, 2018

Thanks for showing interest in what we’re doing here at The Cat Vet. Periodically I’ll post a few paragraphs on topics I think you’ll find interesting. If you have topic suggestions please, by all means, email them in to me at ian@thecatvet.org.  Dr Kate will also be sharing her insights at From Dr Kate so keep an eye open for her new posts too.

Some of what I write here will be opinion so I thought I should start by telling you a bit about me so that you can get a better idea of where these opinions are coming from.

The Beginning: 

I was born in Dunnville and grew up in nearby  Chatham, Ontario, Canada. This part of Ontario is about as far south as you can go and still be in Canada. We were surrounded by the Great Lakes, very flat land, lots of corn, very hot and humid summers and mild winters compared to the rest of Canada. A great place to be a child. Many lakes to swim in and lots of outdoor ice rinks to play hockey on. I was quite young when I decided I wanted to be a vet. Having a father who was born in North Yorkshire, England meant we always had coffee table books, calendars and family photos showing the beautiful scenery of the Yorkshire Dales. My favourite of the coffee table books was a collection of photos called James Herriot’s Yorkshire.  I was fascinated by how different the scenery looked and how far away my Dad grew up.  James Herriot just happened to be a vet and author of the only books I would read. Stories of a rural veterinarian in 1940s and 50s North Yorkshire. I loved how much compassion he showed for the animals and their humans. What a wonderful way to spend your days. A mix of scientific puzzle solving in the forms of medicine and surgery, farmers and livestock, urban families with playful pets, physical challenges, celebrations of cures and gut-wrenching losses. Pats on the back with kicks in the shins. This is what I wanted more than anything and the only real reason I didn’t drop out of school at the first available moment. Now all I had to do was get into vet school.

The University Years:  

I was accepted to the University of Prince Edward Island, Canada and for this reason I do believe that luck exists. A beautiful island on Canada’s east coast. Think red soil and sand, potatoes, lobster, and Anne of Green Gables (I confess that I still haven’t read this). First the BSc in biology which included a year on exchange in Dundee, Scotland, then the doctorate in veterinary medicine , DVM, back in PEI. Eight years of University feels like 12 when you consider the classroom to be your least favourite place to be. But I was sure it would be worth it. I was right.  

The New/Recent Graduate Years:

I graduated eager to be a rural mixed animal vet – because that’s what James Herriot was. I worked in north-western Connecticut, USA for just over a year and then in the Appalachian Mountains of North Carolina for almost 4 years. I’d been interested in seeing New Zealand since I was a child (similar to Canada but better weather) so I decided to come and work here. On my way here I stopped in the UK and worked for 3 years all over Scotland and England. It was in Scotland that I met my partner Laura (also a vet). Laura and I, with multiple animals, arrived in Christchurch in 2007 and now call this home.

Influences:

James Alfred Wight, MRCVS (aka James Herriot), Captain James Cook, and my Dad (all 3 called North Yorkshire, England home at some point in their lives – coincidence?). Each taught me that it’s ok for hard work to be painfully hard… and skill is useless without effort. My Mother who is a nurse in the human field taught me that nothing is more important than caring for the ill and the injured.  My older sister taught me that digging in and hanging on is the best way to endure what life throws at you and she proved it. Other big influences include every patient that let me get close enough to say hello and every vet and vet nurse I’ve had the pleasure of working with.

Veterinary Interests:

Analgesia for the ill and injured in a low-stress, quiet respectful manner. What’s more important than that?  And a safe and tranquil place for cats to heal. Just cats!

Best Known For:

I wish it was a skill or an accomplishment but I think I’m best known for being really tall.

Professional Goal:

I just want to help.

 

March 15, 2018

Feline Emergencies

Some emergencies are not avoidable.  No matter how hard we try sometimes unfortunate things happen. Some problems are fairly simple and obvious and some are very serious as well as challenging to diagnose and treat. It is natural for owners to try to make the diagnosis themselves and nurse their cat through an illness at home to save time, money, inconvenience and the stress of a trip to the vet.  But how do cat owners know when a vet is required? The answer is actually quite simple - ask a vet. We're available 24/7 to help you decide if this a true emergency or not.  We can't make a diagnosis over the phone but by asking you some questions we can decide if this is likely OK to wait until morning or not.  There is really no reason not to call. So call. That's what we're here for. For those who don't feel they have been a wise consumer until they have evaluated the situation fully using Google first then I will give you some signs to watch for that I would call red flags. If you see any of these please call a vet.

1) Open mouthed breathing. Panting is really a dog thing. Most healthy cats won't pant and will breath slowly and evenly through their nostrils.  The rare exception would be the young kitten who has been chasing the artificial mouse so frantically for 5 minutes that it needs a 5 second breather - but again this is still quite rare.

2) Anything that looks painful. Cats get very quiet and sometimes grumpy when painful. If they normally allow you to pick them up but tonight they resented it perhaps they are painful. They have to be pretty painful before they will show you. If you suspect pain please call.

3) Unusual hiding behaviour. Cats become quite secretive when they are unwell.  Sometimes they are too unwell to hide and will remain in one spot for an usually long period of time

4) Acting "drunk" or wobbly. 

5) Male cats that are having difficulty passing urine or faeces.  We are always watching for male cats who develop a blockage in the lower urinary tract. This blockage is essentially a cork. Urine can't get past it. The bladder continues to fill like a water balloon. This is serious. Some cats make repeated trips to the litter tray without producing a proper stream. Some produce nothing at all. Some give up on the litter tray and urinate in usual places. And some just over-groom the area around their penis. It can be difficult to tell if cats that are straining in the litter tray are trying to urinate or pass faeces. Time to call.

6) Seizures, twitches or fainting spells. 

7) Vomiting with diarrhoea. The odd vomit is not that unusual. And one episode of diarrhoea on its own may just be a one-off. But vomiting and diarrhoea together can be quite serious and leads to rapid dehydration as fluids are lost from both ends. More than 4 vomits in a 12 hour period is the limit for most vets.  Excessive drooling can be a problem too. 

8) Wounds. Any wound that, if on yourself, looks too big for a plaster is worth calling about. 

9) Water bowl gazing. Cats do not normally look at their reflection in the water bowl. At least not for more than a second or two. But cats that have ingested a toxin sometimes do.

10) Anything hanging out of your cat anywhere on their body is worth a phone call to the vet. Resist the urge to pull it out. I know it's tempting but this can make things worse. 

11) Anything on your cat's fur that smells like a chemical shouldn't be there. Anything on their fur will end up in their mouth. You may need advice on how to remove it safely. 

12) Anything involving an eye. They're important and there are only 2 issued per lifetime. 

13) Anything eaten that was not food or water. This includes toxins, human medications (these are often toxic to cats), string, plastic or fabric toys etc. 

These are the basics.  Fortunately for you this list does not need to be all inclusive or committed to memory by you. Just remember...

  IF IT DOESN'T LOOK RIGHT - IT PROBABLY ISN'T. CALL THE VET.

Next time we'll discuss how to prevent some common emergencies.

March 29, 2018

Preventing Common Emergencies

Preventing all emergencies requires gaining control of the universe.  Until you are able to do this here are some tips to help prevent the common emergencies. Most cats live a percentage of their life indoors and a percentage outdoors. The 100% indoor cat is becoming more popular each year.  If done correctly 100% indoor living removes the majority of potential problems while maintaining a normal healthy active lifestyle. You’ll hear more from us in the future about how to do this.  If your cat never ever goes outside unless in a cat carrier then much of this you can skip over. Although we do cover household risks here as well. 

It’s a dangerous world out there. And it gets more dangerous at night for humans as well as cats. Studies in urban centres show that when cats happen upon a very busy street during peak periods they are less inclined to attempt to cross.  Bumper to bumper traffic can look like a moving and intimidating wall. But at night, when traffic is less frequent, cats will be more likely to venture to the other side making them more at risk of being hit by a car. This is so common that vets simply write HBC (Hit By Car) in the patient record or RTA (Road Traffic Accident in the UK). I prefer the former as the latter, to me, suggests the cat may have been driving the car.  Another night-time danger is the un-neutered, un-owned, un-vaccinated, Feline Aids Virus-carrying, ear-notched, street smart, martial artist known simply as the Stray Tomcat. These cats are driven by testosterone. They’re interested in mating or fighting or both. And they do both extremely well.  While I’m sure your cat has many times unleashed his inner jaguar on that artificial mouse on a string or stood his ground by hissing at the neighbour’s cat in his garden from the safety of his spot on the couch protected by glass…he’s no match. Even after you’ve swapped his sparkly collar for the one with studs. The interesting thing is that, by day, many of these Stray Tomcats hide due to a fear of humans but prowl at night.  Nothing good happens out there in the middle of the night. So this brings me to my first tip.

1)      Everyone in at dusk. A very special treat like a small piece of roast chicken, half of a teaspoon of salmon, or a sardine, or tasty wet cat food etc can be given once a day. This is their reward for coming in at dusk. The cat flaps get locked until dawn. Heavy cats will need a smaller treat. Cats on special diets will need help from their vet about what can be offered. Any inappropriate behaviours from cats determined to go right back out can be modified with some help from your vet. Once the routine has been established everything gets easier.

2)      Litter trays. You may prefer that your cat toilets outside. Your cat may also prefer this. But there are big advantages to getting your cat used to using a litter tray. If they are confined to the house overnight this gives them an indoor toilet option. If you go away for a night or two and have a friend coming by daily to top up the food bowl and check to see everything is ok then why not also confine your cat to the house while you are away. Sometimes cats get funny about returning to their house when a semi-stranger is coming by. Valuable info like whether or not there is blood in the urine or stool, constipation, diarrhoea, etc. These are valuable bits of info when trying to understand how healthy they are.

3)      Toxic House or Garden plants. Cats, especially kittens, occasionally eat them. Some are so toxic they are lethal. The Lily is a good example. And others are only mildly toxic and will only cause mild gastrointestinal issues.  There are so many safe options. Why not get rid of all of the lethal ones just in case. A friend has given you a flower arrangement? I wouldn’t expect them to know which are toxic to cats. That’s for us to research. If in doubt, throw it out. One day your local florist will be able to steer you away from the risky ones. Even better – imagine a florist who labels every plant in their shop as either “Safe For Cats” or “Toxic To Cats”. If you have many houseplants and you’re not sure what they are called try this free app to identify it.

4)      Human medications. It’s not easy giving pills to cats. But every once in a while an owner accidentally drops one of their own pills on the floor and their cat eats it. Human medications are often very dangerous and toxic when ingested by cats. Keep all medications in a safe place and away from your cat. Ideally these would be taken by you over a sink so that if a pill is dropped it will either go down the drain or be easily found. And never give a human medication to a cat without speaking to a vet first.

5)      Car Antifreeze or Coolant. Ethylene Glycol which is used in antifreeze is extremely toxic to cats. And many cats will lap it up from a puddle. One teaspoon is enough to cause permanent fatal kidney damage. If you have fluids leaking from your car best to get it sorted. Cats often hide under cars so even an oil leak, which is more common, can get on your cat’s fur. Remember that anything that gets on their fur will end up in their mouth as they groom it off.

6)      Deck, roof and driveway sprays. These are often described as very safe. In reality they are not. If a cat walks through a chemical puddle they will attempt to clean their feet by grooming it off with their tongue. This is the same as eating or drinking the chemical. If a product is 100% safe to be sprayed around pets then it will be safe enough that the sales person will happily drink a glass of it in front of you. Nothing beats a pressure sprayer or good old fashion scrubbing with a brush. Your Fitbit will be proud of you for choosing the more labour-intensive option.

7)      Cat Fight Abscesses. Is your cat a frequent fighter? If he or she regularly returns home in the morning with fresh wounds from a night of fighting please see Tip #1. If fights are happening during the day you may need to consider cat fencing or a cat patio aka a “catio”, or supervised trips outside etc. Are the fights happening on your property? Do you frequently see cats that are not yours on your property? If cat fencing and confinement are not an option right now then be diligent in your efforts to discourage other cats from coming onto your property. Be kind to these cats but be firm. A coffee can with some coins or stones it in makes quite a racket when shaken vigorously.  Unfortunately, it’s hard to patrol the property all of the time but every little bit helps. After a few startling experiences roaming cats will often choose other places to go.  If you feel you see proper stray, un-neutered, un-owned, or unwell cats in your garden consider contacting one of the local Cat Charities for help. Try not to leave any cat food outside that will attract unwanted visitors. Your cat can eat inside. Your cat is not allowed inside during the day? Let’s change that. A microchip triggered cat door can be installed allowing only your cat into the house. No microchip? Let’s change that too. If your cat is sometimes destructive in the house when you are not home you can place the cat door onto a door that only accesses a cat proofed room like a laundry room, or garage (see tip #5 if you store antifreeze in here or a leaking car also uses the garage). If fights persist consider indoor living from now on for your cat. See this site and this one for tips on how to create a great indoor environment. Please remember that feline diseases like the Feline Aids Virus are transmitted through fighting (see tip #8)

8)      Vaccines. We don’t want to under-vaccinate and we don’t want to over-vaccinate. We don’t want to bombard, confuse or distract a cat’s immune system with vaccines he or she doesn’t need.  And we certainly don’t want to go back the pre-1950s when Feline Enteritis was called Cat Plague – before this date there was no vaccine for the Panleukopoenia virus and it was the number one killer of the domestic cat. Since the vaccine came out we almost never see it in properly vaccinated cats. But the virus is still around in the un-vaccinated cats. This particular virus is stable and contagious for weeks or months in the environment making it possible for us to take it home on our shoes. The vaccine for the Feline Aids Virus should be considered for all cats that go outside and especially those that fight. It’s not for every cat. And we need to discuss the pros and cons before we add it. In fact, there is not one vaccine protocol that fits every cat’s needs. Talk to your vet about what your cat’s vaccine options are. Together you and your vet can make a vaccine strategy that is ideal for your cat. And next year, if lifestyle or risks change, so should the strategy. 

9)      Bones. I feed my cat zero bones. None at all. And he’s not calcium deficient. But he is a bit chunky and we are currently getting his weight down. He gets all of the calcium he needs in his well formulated premium Metabolic weight loss cat food. I occasionally hear vets say that it’s good for a cat to eat bones. I disagree and I’m not alone. I’ve noticed over the years that vets who have done a lot of emergency work are frustrated by the number of bone ingestion-related emergencies. I’ve removed bones of all shapes and sizes from cats, raw and cooked from one end of the gastrointestinal tract to the other. I’ve removed them from the roof of the mouth, from between teeth, lodged in the oesophagus, stuck in the stomach, small intestines, large intestines, and rectum. I’ve seen abscesses behind the eyeball that we suspect came from eating a sharp bone which punctured the back of the mouth and went in as far as the space behind the eye. I’ve seen infections in the chest cavity which were likely from swallowing a sharp bone which poked a hole through the lower oesophagus introducing bacteria into the chest.  I feel feeding bones is just too risky.

10)   A Tincture of Time. Sometimes letting small things play out a bit allows the body to resolve issues on its own without vet visits and medications etc. So this old saying is sometimes a good one. But sometimes A Stitch In Time Saves Nine. Small things can turn into big things if we wait too long. But how are you supposed to know the difference? Call and we will help you decide. If it’s 3am and I really think it can wait until morning I will honestly tell you. And if I really feel it can’t wait I will tell you that too.

11)   Human Foods. You’ve heard this before. Onions, grapes, raisins, garlic, alcohol, chocolate, avocado, and caffeine are all toxic. How much is too much? Well, if they’re toxic and they don’t need it then we shouldn’t be offering them any at all. If they’ve accidentally found and ingested one of these please call and we’ll figure it out.

12)   Kittens and Toddlers. We see a lot of kittens that have been stepped on or dropped by a small child. It’s accidental and everyone feels badly after but in some cases we can see it coming. If you wouldn’t trust the child to carry your ipad or your hot coffee then maybe it would be best for everyone to sit on the floor to play nicely with the kitten. It’s easier for a worried cat to get away from a small child if the child is sitting on the floor. And if the kitten does get picked up by the sitting child the distance when dropped is much shorter.

13)   Grocery Store Flea Treatments. Some of the flea treatments sold over the counter at grocery and pet stores contain permethrin. Permethrin is in insect spray. It’s toxic. We shouldn’t use these on our cats at all. And if you accidentally purchase the dog one (has a picture of both a dog and a cat on the box but says dog at the top) then you will likely see seizures. I’ve never understood why the dangerous ones are available over the counter at local shops yet the safe ones require a prescription. Clients feel guilty when they purchase a toxic flea medication then find that not only was it dangerous but it didn’t work very well for the fleas either. And they’re usually only saving a dollar or two using the OTC formulations. I trust Revolution, Bravecto, and Advantage.  Frontline and Broadline are safe but we’re noticing that these products with fipronil as their active ingredient are not as effective as they used to be. Although I did hear that it was wonderfully effective in the management of locusts in Madagascar and the Raspberry Crazy Ant in Texas.

14)   Baits. Rat bait, slug bait, snail bait etc. Kittens are curious and will taste most things. Some adult cats will too although this is so much more of dog problem. But we see it in cats too. Pets and baits do not go together safely. Baits are designed to be lethal. And they are to cats as well as their intended target species.

15)   Obesity aka jolly, chubby, chunky, lipidocious, big boned, rubenesque, portly, sturdy, stalky, well-fed, and fat. All polite ways of saying unwell. Obese male cats are much more likely to develop a blockage in their urinary tract (especially if they are fed a 100% dry diet) leaving them unable to urinate causing kidney failure. Obese cats risk diabetes. With diabetes sometimes comes insulin dosage issues and the list goes on. Obesity-related issues can be fast-moving and dramatic. Not just the arthritis and smouldering liver issues that we usually think of. Staying lean is key. And with modern weight-loss diets, food measurement, diet counselling with a vet nurse etc reaching the target weight goal is very achievable. Rapid weight loss intentional or unintentional is a concern in cats as they are prone to developing Hepatic Lipidosis. Your vet team will help you do this for your cat safely.

16)   Dogs on the Loose. Owners of roaming dogs can be penalised by the council yet cats are allowed to wander freely. This seems unfair to some dog owners. But 2 cats approaching a playground without an owner in sight is not a reason to scoop up your child and head for the car. But replace the 2 cats with 2 large dogs and I’d be worried. Stray or off-lead dogs are a risk to humans and cats. Some cats are too trusting. If you see a loose dog in your neighbourhood please call the council. Maybe your cat is dog-savvy but not all are. If not for your own cat you’ll be helping to protect another.

17)   Fishing Tackle. Many cats love fish. A minnow on a hook is too tempting. Get rid of minnows and worms and store tackle safely.  Artificial baits called fishing lures are often sparkly and hanging from fishing line. You know what else is sparkly and hanging from fishing line? A cat toy. They’re too similar. Put the lures back into the tackle box when not in use – just like Dad taught you.

18)   Hot Surfaces. New kitten that has never seen a log burner before? Or has never seen one with a hot cooking-surface on top? Blisters coming. Talk to your log burner salesperson. There are options to make this a safe place.

19)   The Geriatric Snoozer. When cats get to certain advanced age they tend to start sleeping in odd places and they sleep much more deeply than they used to. If your cat likes to sleep anywhere around or under parked cars I worry that they may not wake and move fast enough to get out of the way. The older they are the slower they move. And with age can come hearing loss. Partially or completely deaf cats sleep very soundly and may not hear their name called, the start of the engine, and the toot of the horn.

20)   Dystocia. This is the medical term for difficulty giving birth. In dogs we call the delivery process whelping. In cats we call it queening. When it goes very wrong we call it dystocia.  Most cats born in the world are the result of an un-planned pregnancy. If you have a female cat that is over 6 months of age and not spayed yet you will probably find her to be pregnant soon. If you are reading this too late and your cat is already pregnant discuss your options with your vet. Feeding her kitten food will help prevent her calcium from dropping (called milk fever). Feed her good quality kitten food before she gives birth and don’t stop until the kittens are weaned – usually 3 to 5 weeks. When the kittens are weaned she will immediately try to get pregnant again. Having her spayed is the best prevention for all of this. Nature doesn’t always go the way we want it. Pregnant cats don’t always deliver their kittens without the help of a caesarean section. Emergency surgery is costly. So if you’re not an experienced cat breeder make sure your female cat gets spayed. Your vet will help you decide when to have this done. If funds are not available for this please contact one of the local cat charities for help.

Next time we'll discuss feline parasites....and human parasites too.